When it comes to unique culinary mushrooms, only a handful sit among the ranks of the legendary Matsutake. Compared to other species, Matsutake is not in the least subtle, instead it packs an intense and pungent flavor. It is most famous in Japan, where, prices can range up to $1000 USD per kilogram in the right season. In Japan, Matsutake has been a highly cherished autumn delicacy for at least 1000 years. 

While this mushroom can be prepared in many delicious ways, contrasting opinions exist about its flavor. The renowned mycologist David Arora states that this mushroom smells between red hot cinnamon candies and sweaty socks, a description commonly used by US American mycologists. Indeed, if this mushroom isn’t adequately prepared, its pungent flavor can be less than appetizing. 

This is an image from the book “Kinpu” from Japan’s Edo period (1603 to 1867). The image depicts two matsutake mushrooms and includes accompanying text describing the mushroom’s names, habitat, aroma, appearance, and edibility.

The story behind the scientific name Tricholoma matsutake exemplifies these contrasting gastronomic perspectives.  In 1905, Norwegian Axel Blytt originally described the species as Armillaria nauseosa (the genus was later changed to Tricholoma in 1943 by Rolf Singer), whose specific epithet (nauseosa) signified “to make sick” or “to make vomit.” Two decades later, unaware of Blytt’s work, Japanese researchers Seiya Ito and Sanshi Imai described the same mushroom, well-known in Japan, as Armillaria matsutake. 

Only in the early 2000s did DNA analysis reveal that these two mushrooms were the exact same species. According to the St. Louis Botanical Code, which sets up the rules for naming species, only the earliest name used in a formal description should remain valid. As a show of respect to the Japanese culture, Scandinavian mycologists proposed that the name Tricholoma matsutake should be used for this species despite it going against the taxonomic code. In 2002, this name change was made official, and Tricholoma matsutake became the official name of this iconic mushroom. 

Image from “Illustrations of Famous Places in Settsu Province” 1798. It depicts people picking Matsutake mushrooms. 

Matsutake Market from the book “Atlas of famous things in the mountains and seas of Japan” released in 1797. The text describes a bustling matsutake mushroom market in Osaka during the Edo period. Individual stalls are set up, and customers carefully examine the mushrooms before purchasing them. The atmosphere is lively and noisy, with people competitively bargaining for the prized matsutake.

The Name “Matsutake”

The name Matsutake translates to Pine Mushroom (‘Matsu” meaning pine and “take” meaning mushroom), referring to its well-known association with Pine. The oldest documented use of the name “Matsutake” is from the “Shūi Wakashū,” in the third imperial anthology of Japanese poetry, compiled around 1005 AD.  In the poem, the word Matsutake is used with a clever double meaning that combines two words in a phrase. The poem is a play on words where the mushroom’s name is pronounced by combining unrelated words. Below is a translation of this poem, although its context is lost in translation. 

¨My clothes got wet in the river that flows at the foot of the mountain. I want to dry my wet kimono, so please light a fire first.¨ – “Shūi Wakashū” 1005 AD.

https://dl.ndl.go.jp/pid/801467/1/8 From “Illustrated Guide to Specialties of Various Provinces, Spring,” published in 1896.

Matsutake In Other Parts Of The World

While Matsutake has recently become popular in distinct parts of the world, such as China and the USA, there are few places with a deep tradition of consuming it or it’s close relatives.

In some parts of the mediterranean, Tricholoma caligatum, a distant relative of the Matsutake is consumed. In the island of Cyprus it is known as Ήμερο or Μαραθεύτικο»  and commonly consumed pickled with vinegar.

In parts of southern Mexico, a more closely related species (T. mesoamericanum) is highly valued and consumed. It often fetches high prices, 5-10x that of other wild mushrooms. Some localities call it Hongo de Venado (Deer Mushroom), Hongo de Aguacate (Avocado Mushroom), Hongo de Ocote (Pine Mushroom) or simply Hongo Japones (Japanese Mushrooms).